Making resin for the first time feels intimidating. There's lots of equipment, chemicals, and things that can go wrong. But honestly? It's not that hard once you understand the basics.
This guide walks you through everything you need to know for your first successful resin project. No fluff—just practical steps.
What is Epoxy Resin? (The Basics)
Epoxy resin is two chemicals that mix together and harden into crystal-clear solid.
Part A (resin) + Part B (hardener) = Reaction = Hard, clear plastic-like material perfect for jewelry, coasters, art, and more.
That's it. It's chemistry happening at your desk.
What You'll Need (Shopping List)
Must-Have Supplies
Epoxy resin two-part kit (~$25-40 for 32oz)
Silicone mold(s) ($5-20 depending on size/type)
Digital scale ($20-30) - CRITICAL for accurate ratio
Mixing cups (disposable or dedicated) - $5
Stir sticks (popsicle sticks work) - free
Heat gun ($20) - for removing bubbles
Resin-specific pigments optional ($5-15) - for color
Safety Supplies (Don't Skip)
Disposable nitrile gloves - $5
Dust mask or respirator - $10
Eye protection - $10
Apron or old clothes - free
Total startup cost: $100-150. Not cheap, but these tools last for many projects.
Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace
Step 1
Set Up Your Work Area
Location matters. Choose a space where:
- Ventilation exists (open window, fan, or dedicated room)
- Temperature is 70-75°F (too cold = slow cure, too hot = fast cure)
- Humidity is below 50% (moisture = cloudy resin)
- You won't disturb anyone (fumes are mild but noticeable)
- Surface is flat and level (critical for even curing)
Cover your work surface with cardboard or plastic—resin sticks and is hard to remove.
Step 2: Safety First (Not Optional)
Step 2
Protect Yourself
Epoxy fumes are mild but irritating. Resin can stick to skin and cause reactions if you're sensitive.
- Wear gloves: Nitrile gloves prevent skin contact. Wear them the entire time.
- Wear eye protection: Safety glasses prevent resin splashes.
- Wear a mask: Dust mask or respirator reduces fume inhalation.
- Ventilate: Open a window or use a fan. Fresh air is free safety.
- Avoid skin contact: If resin touches skin, wash immediately with soap and water.
This sounds serious because it is. But honestly, it's simple—just don't touch resin bare-handed and keep the room ventilated.
Step 3: Prepare Your Mold
Step 3
Set Up for Success
Mold preparation is quick and critical:
Make sure mold is clean and dry (dust or moisture = defects)
If using non-silicone mold, apply
release agent (spray or brush on, let dry 10 minutes)
Place mold on level surface (absolutely critical—uneven surface = uneven curing)
Have any embeds/decorations ready nearby
Pro tip: Quality silicone molds usually don't need release agent, but applying it doesn't hurt.
Step 4: Mix Your Resin (The Most Important Step)
Step 4
Mixing Ratio is Everything
Check your resin bottle—it tells you the ratio. Most common is 2:1 (epoxy:hardener) or 10:1.
DO NOT EYEBALL THIS. Use your digital scale. Seriously.
Example (2:1 ratio):
1. Weigh 200g of resin (Part A)
2. Weigh 100g of hardener (Part B)
3. Pour resin in cup
4. Slowly add hardener while stirring
5. Stir slowly for 2-3 minutes (not fast—you're avoiding bubbles)
6. Let rest 1-2 minutes (bubbles rise to surface naturally)
Slow mixing is better than fast mixing. You want thorough mixing, not a frothy mess.
Step 5: Pour Into Mold
Step 5
The Pour
Pour slowly and deliberately. This is not a race.
- Pour from 2-3 inches above mold (not from way high)
- Pour in steady stream, don't splash or splash back
- Fill mold completely unless you're doing layers
- If you have embeds (glitter, flowers, etc.), add now
After pouring, you'll see bubbles. This is normal. You have about 5 minutes to remove them with a heat gun.
Step 6: Remove Bubbles (Optional but Recommended)
Step 6
Heat Gun Magic
Turn on your heat gun to LOW (important). Wave it across the surface for 20-30 seconds. You'll see bubbles pop and float to the surface where they escape.
Don't overdo it. 30 seconds is plenty. Too much heat = yellowing and problems.
If you don't have a heat gun, just let it cure. Bubbles will rise naturally over 24 hours.
Step 7: Let it Cure (This Takes Time)
Step 7
The Hardest Part: Waiting
Do not touch it. Do not move it. Do not try to demold early.
Cure timeline:
- 4-6 hours: Resin is firm but still soft
- 12 hours: Hard enough to touch, still curing
- 24 hours: Can demold, still slightly flexible
- 48-72 hours: Fully cured, maximum hardness
Best practice: Wait 48 hours before demolding. Yes, it feels like forever. But patience = perfect results.
Step 8: Demold (The Reveal)
Step 8
Getting Your Piece Out
Carefully flex the silicone mold. Don't force it. Resin should pop out with gentle flexing.
- Start at one edge, flex gently
- Work around all sides
- Go slow—rushing = cracking your piece
- If stuck, wait another 24 hours and try again
Congratulations! You made resin! 🎉
Your First Project: The Coaster
For your first time, make a coaster. Why?
- Small = fast to make
- Simple = fewer things to go wrong
- Forgiving = defects are invisible on coasters
- Functional = you actually use the result
Materials for one coaster:
- ~$1-2 in resin and hardener
- 1 silicone coaster mold (~$3-5)
- Optional: drop of pigment for color (~$0.10)
Total: ~$4-7 for your first coaster. Totally worth it to learn.
Common First-Timer Mistakes (Avoid These)
- Wrong ratio: Use the scale. Every time. No exceptions.
- Vigorous mixing: You're not making a milkshake. Mix slowly.
- Demolding too early: Wait 24+ hours. Patience pays off.
- No release agent on plastic molds: Resin sticks. Use release agent on non-silicone.
- Using cheap pigments: Food coloring and acrylic paint bleed. Use resin-specific.
Ready to Level Up?
Once you've mastered your first coaster, explore our comprehensive guides to learn advanced techniques, troubleshooting, and how to build a profitable resin business.
Browse Complete Guides →